Outdoor rabbit housing
Unfortunately hutches supplied by pet shops are now outdated and not suitable as their sole accommodation. Rabbits need room to be able to stand on their hind legs and stretch out.... all the natural behaviours they need to express. Small hutches can cause a number of problems, behavioural and health wise. There are lots of alternative ideas out there now. Naturally rabbits feel safer having multiple exits which a hutch just doesn't provide, this is why a lot of rabbits are fearful as they feel cornered in a hutch with no escape route.
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Rabbits need lots of safe space to exercise in. For this reason we suggest a shed or wooden playhouse with an enclosed / secure run attached which they have permanent access to so that the rabbits can decide when they want to shelter, and when to play. Rabbits are most active at dawn and dusk - they’re 'crepuscular' - so lifting them from hutch to run for a few hours in the daytime just doesn’t suit their instincts. This can lead to frustration and aggression. In addition to their shed and run they would really enjoy free run of the garden when supervised (or rabbit proofed parts of the house).
Size
The RWAF (The Rabbit Welfare Association & Fund) recommend:
- 24/7 access to a shelter and run:
- Shelter size should be no smaller than 6ft x 2ft x2ft
- Attached run should be at least 3M x 2M x 1M
Rabbits were first domesticated for meat and they didn't get much space, now they are part of our family and we need to mimic their natural environment as much we can and responsibly reach their minimum requirements.
Location
The rabbits' accommodation can be located on:
- Concrete
- Slabs
- Decking
- Grass
Rabbits whose area is on a lawn will enjoy access to grass every day, which is great for their teeth and digestive systems and will keep them busy. But be aware that unless you take appropriate precautions, they are likely to dig their way out and predators could dig in putting them at risk.
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How to secure the accommodation:
If you have the rabbits' accommodation on grass, ensure you fit a wire-mesh skirt / dig mesh under the lawn or set paving slabs around the perimeter to make it more difficult for your rabbits to tunnel out or a predator to tunnel in.
This ideally needs to be positioned out of direct sunlight as rabbits struggle in heat.
Choosing the right mesh:
The exercise enclosure must be secure and predator proof... it has to keep out foxes and other predators so the wire mesh must be of a good quality, this must be welded mesh of a heavy gauge, not chicken wire, which they can bite through (we have personally witnessed this).
The gauging system for thickness of wire means the lower the number, the thicker the wire; 16g (1.2mm) is the minimum we recommend but 12g is even better. Ensure that the wire is properly fixed to the wood if you use a wooden frame. If it’s a single layer of wire it is safer to be attached on the inside of the run rather than the outside (The staples that hold the wire to the wood must be as strong as possible so go for the sturdiest you can find.)
On a metal frame make sure the mesh is securely fastened to the frame.
The size of the holes in the wire is also important; 13mm is perfect, but most commercially produced enclosures will have a 25mm gap. This will keep out foxes and rats but not smaller predators such as ferrets, stoats and weasels. Be aware that some exercise runs have caused death or injury to rabbits who have got their heads stuck in the mesh and / or gaps. Always read the reviews and remember rabbits can get through smaller gaps than we think they can!
Don't rely on simple bolts or catches to secure the opening to a run as many animals can work out how to open them; it's best to use a locking bolt or if you can, a padlock.
If you are interested in adopting a bunny from us we always ask for photos of the accommodation you will be offering so please ensure your accommodation is suitable. It is always worth contacting us before choosing your housing for the bunnies, we are more than happy to help and advise.